Giant turtles laying eggs. Snorkeling with turtles and other animals. Short visit to Sur.

Travelogue Oman 2019
Ras Al Jinz, Ras Al Hadd, Sur

In the desert we had told Caroline and JP that we wanted to go to the Turtle Reserve of Ras Al Jinz next. The two of them spontaneously joined us and so we drove north together.

Caroline, JP, Malina and Volker at an Indian lunch in Oman
After a night in the tent it’s great to eat properly again. As so often in Oman, we ended up at an Indian diner. As so often, very tasty.

If one wants to visit the Turtle Reserve, one has the choice between the hotel complex directly in the reserve or a hotel outside. There is a guided tour every evening and every morning to the beach where the turtles lay their eggs. We wanted to do both tours and if you stay at the Reserve, these tours are included. Together with the advantage of already being on site, the decision for us was clear: stay overnight directly in the reserve.

Luxury Eco Tent at Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve, Oman
We even got an upgrade and slept in these “Luxury Eco Tents”. But the normal rooms in the main complex are certainly also perfectly okay, just a little less extraordinary.

We were at the reserve at a time when there are rather few turtles to be seen. Still, there were many tourists, I guess there were at least fifty. We were split into smaller groups and then walked to the beach with a guide each.

In the Ras Al Jinz Reserve, great importance is attached to offering ecologically compatible tourism. As a result, the guides only use red glowing flashlights and always make sure that the tourists stand in such a way that the turtle does not see them. With my very amateurish experience, I do wonder if this is really necessary, because it always seems to me that these turtles have a set genetic program running when they lay eggs, and nothing can interfere with them. But what do I know.

Anyway, on our night tour, which started around eight o’clock, we saw turtles digging holes and laying eggs … plop, plop, plob. On our morning tour, which started at about five o’clock, we saw turtles filling up their holes again with sand and returning to the sea in the light of sunrise. We just didn’t see any turtles come right out of the water nor any baby turtles hatch. The following photos can only give a very vague impression of our experience here, with the morning tour photos being much better due to the lighting conditions. If you are also coming to the area, you should not miss a visit to the reserve.

large sea turtle laying eggs in Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve, Oman
This was one of the large turtles that we were able to see laying eggs at night. These heavy animals, perform impressive work during the night when they lay eggs. They not only dig a deep hole in which to lay their eggs, but also lay false trails to mislead the varied egg predators.
turtle egg at the beach of Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve, Oman
The turtle eggs are about the size of a table tennis ball, but much softer.
It is amazing how these heavy animals move on land and with what ease they then disappear into the waves.
a sea turtle on its way back into the water in Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve, Oman
Not only is the experience great, but so is the setting.
tracks of a large sea turtle in the sand at Ras Al Jinz Turtle Reserve, Oman
The tracks these animals leave in the sand look great too.

Now a little walk on the beach, then breakfast and after check-out we went on to Ras Al Hadd, where we spent another two hours in the sea and on the beach. I did some snorkeling and saw a few turtles (insanely elegant and insanely fast underwater!) and maybe even a small manta ray (if not, it was a another kind of ray).

At this point Caroline and JP said goodbye to us, they headed back to the mountains, we made a flying visit to the town of Sur and then headed back to the capital for a night.

Our side trip to Sur was quite nice. We walked criss-cross through the town, saw modern palaces, old houses, a ship museum … Sur has a long seafaring and shipbuilding tradition. That was quite nice, but if you don’t have much time, I think you can leave Sur unvisited.

Between Ras Al Hadd and Sur we had an encounter with a swarm of locusts. It wasn’t biblical proportions with darkened skies, but impressive nonetheless.

for us an impressive experience
a giant locust in Oman
Beautiful animals, I guess about eight centimeters long. If they eat away your crops or you have to clean your car after driving through a swarm, you’re probably less excited than we were.

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