Travelogue Oman 2019
Oasis Al ­Mudhaireb

Then we finally start. We pick up our car and load it with groceries, a tent and everything else that might be needed. At noon we set off inland. Our destination for the short day’s trip should be near the Al Mudhaireb oasis.

landscape near Ibra, Oman
Just after Ibra. We are fascinated by this landscape. Large, completely flat areas that are probably sometimes flooded. Stone desert and trees.
a herd of goats near Ibra, Oman
These are probably the most beautiful goats I’ve ever seen. I am also immediately asked if I would like to buy one. I parry with thanks. I much prefer the goats to look at than roasted on a spit.

It’s getting dark and it’s time to look for a place to stay. For today we have planned our first night in the tent.

Next to our car are parts of the skeleton of a large animal. Near Oasis Al Mudhaireb, Oman.
Hmmm, are there any reasons why we should NOT pitch our tent here?
our tent somewhere in the middle of nowhere in Oman
Anyway, the sun went down. No more time to worry or look for an alternative. And both the fact that you’re reading this and that the photo actually shows the sunrise proves that we survived.

The next morning our first breakfast “on the road”. Away from the capital or from hotels, you have the choice of either self-catering or mostly Indian snacks.

typical Indian food at one of the many snack bars in Oman
This is – especially in combination with freshly squeezed juices – a good basis for the day.

Then visit of the oasis Al Mudhaireb and the ruins there.

It gets exciting right at the beginning. We just parked our car in the center of the tiny place and got out of the car when a scene occurred that felt like we’d ended up in an spy movie. Out of nowhere appear at least three, more likely five white Toyota Prado and “surround” us. Tall men in traditional Omani clothing jump out of the cars, including the typical dagger on their belts, which is mandatory here. What do they want from us ??? Nothing at all, most of them seem to be bodyguards and groupe around an identically dressed older man and disappear into an alley. The older man even greets us, but we are too flabbergasted to answer.

A group of traditionally dressed men disappear into one of the alleys of Al Mudhaireb, Oman.
This is one of the few photos we have of the situation. Who thinks of taking photos when they’re afraid of being arrested or kidnapped? Not to mention the question of whether it would have been totally impolite to take photos without asking first.

Days later, I tell myself that we probably met Sultan Qaboos ibn Said. But an Omani friend convinced me that this was certainly not the case. Even if the Sultan, who was seriously ill at the time, had traveled through the country, it would certainly not have been with so few people and also not with a Toyota Prado, which is great for us, but obviously not a suitable vehicle for the head of state.

I would describe the ruins, the town and the view of the oasis as “quite nice”.

view from the castle ruins of Al Mudhaireb, Oman, of the town and the oasis
view from the castle ruins of Al Mudhaireb, Oman, of the town and the oasis
Malina in the castle ruins of Al Mudhaireb, Oman
Malina in the castle ruins of Al Mudhaireb

After a short visit, we drive further east and enjoy the landscape.

Malina and a camel near Al Mudhaireb, Oman
There are free-roaming camels everywhere here, but they almost always belong to someone. Most camels are rather shy or not very interested in people and cuddling with them.

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