Ferry rides. Ships at low tide on dry land. Nature observations in shallow water. Snorkeling among beautiful corals. Very tasty fish.

Travelogue Oman 2019
Masirah Island

The rest of the day was reserved for the drive to Masirah Island, about 250 km by road to Shanna and then on by ferry. The ride up to Shanna was less than spectacular. At the port, there are two ways to get to the island: the public ferries, which are classic modern ferries, with parking decks and passenger decks, and commercial, non-government ferries, which are much older, a little slower, a little cheaper, and a little more adventurous.

As far as I know, you can’t find out in advance online when the next ship is leaving, especially not for the commercial ferries. So you drive (not too late in the afternoon) to the port and ask. We asked first at the public ferry, it was minutes before departure and so we chose this option on the way there. The tickets for the public ferry can be bought in a building at the harbour. With the commercial ferries, you go, as far as I know, straight to the ship and if they’re taking you, you pay once the ferry has left.

If I remember correctly, on the public ferry you also have to stay on your seat in the passenger deck, so there are no photos here either, because there was nothing to see.

Masirah is the largest island in Oman. There are endless beaches and lots of animals to see. We didn’t see many on land, supposedly there are lots of birds there – at least in the right season. We didn’t see any turtles either, you would have to know at which beach to be at night at the right time of the year. Our visit was definitely worth it though.

Shortly before sunset we arrive at the harbour of the small town Hilf, the biggest or even the only real town on the island. First we drive a little bit along the coast to the south (to 20.615,58.86444), where many traditional fishing boats, so called Dhows, lie at anchor or at low tide on dry land. We walk barefoot through the mud and take lots of photos.

Sunset south of Hilf, Masirah Island, Oman. Dhows lie on dry land due to the low tide.
Sunset south of Hilf
Dhows lie on dry land due to the low tide. South of Hilf, Masirah Island, Oman.
This is – as far as I know – not a ship graveyard but just normal condition during low tide.

Afterwards we look for a hotel, buy some supplies, have something to eat and then go to bed.

The next morning we followed the west coast south.

Hull of a traditional wooden dhow on Masirah Island, Oman.
At the height of the tiny offshore island of Jazirat Shaqaf, you can see the hull of a traditional wooden dhow. One often reads that these boats are completely made of wood, that no metal is processed. However, I cannot confirm this on the basis of this example, here metal is processed.

A few kilometers further south we spent a first small bathing stop at a supposedly completely lonely beach. Then for a moment big excitement with us, as almost as from the nothing a small fishing boat with five or six fishermen appears. We quickly wrapped Malina up in a big towel and she moved back for a bit while I went over to the fishermen, who were very friendly to me. We communicate with hands and feet, because the fishermen speak as much English as I speak Arabic.

A small fishing boat moors on the coast of Masirah Island.
Also the fishermen are much more covered by clothes than I know it from other regions of the world. The one in the back with the gas can, you can only see a little bit of the face. I am immediately offered fish, but unfortunately have to decline, because we don’t have a kitchen.
Volker with a big fish in his hands on Masirah Island, Oman.
The fishermen pass me a big fish and take a photo of me. What kind of fish it is, I’m afraid I don’t know.
Shells from the beach of Masirah Island, Oman.
Malina collects lots of wonderful shells. However, we leave these behind at the end of our trip, as export is strictly forbidden.

We spend the rest of the day at a wonderful beach almost at the very south of Masirah Island. The tide is going out and we can watch the water recede. We always wade behind the water and observe how the creatures of the sea adjust to the changed situation and the coming hours without water. It’s fascinating. We took a lot of pictures, but these photos can’t really reflect our experience.

Malina and Volker at a beach with very shallow water in the south of Masirah Island, Oman
On this picture you can see very nicely how flat this beach, this bay is. Accordingly, only a small drop in the water level makes the water retreat a great distance.
We observed a lot of crabs. This video shows very well that the crab is very vigilant in its search for a safe place to defend itself during the low tide.
Crab in the sand at low tide on Masirah Island, Oman.
This crab is already sitting on dry land.
Crab in the sand at low tide on Masirah Island, Oman.
And is, of course, no less vigilant.

Just around the corner I find some rocks behind which are the most beautiful coral reefs I have seen in a long time. It is difficult to get into the water because of the sharp rocks, there are also not very many fish, but the corals shine in wonderful colors, which is unfortunately a rarity today.

Thus, we stay until sunset at this place and cancel our original plan to circumnavigate the island once completely. So we go back the same way in the dark.

Malina's silhouette against the sunset. South of Masirah Island, Oman.
Perfect sunset for a perfect day.
Volker with a grilled fish in Hilf, Masirah Island, Oman.
For me, the day ends with the most delicious fish I’ve eaten in a long time.
Deck of one of the non-government ferries between Masirah Island and Shanna, Oman.
The next morning we leave Masirah Island. This time we take one of the non-government ferries, which is much nicer in the end.

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