Visit to the historic Bay of Pigs. Perfect service. Beach, birdwatching, diving. Crab invasion or rather massacre? Socialist victory party and peso pizza.

Travelogue Cuba 2012
Bahía de Cochinos

Our next destination was the Bahía de Cochinos, the notorious Bay of Pigs. For the distance of approx. 330 km to Jagüey Grande we chose a Viazul bus. At Jagüey Grande the bus driver let us out at a highway exit with gas station. Here is another anecdote that shows the peculiarities of traveling in Cuba.

As usual, we had reserved accommodation by phone in Playa Larga, the northern end of the Bay of Pigs. From the highway exit where we left the bus, it was still about 30 kilometers to Playa Larga. The guidebook had warned us that there was no public transport here, so our plan was to first see if there was a taxi, and if not, to try to get to Playa Larga by hitchhiking.

So I go to the gas station and ask if you can get a taxi here. The lady I addressed answered me with the question: Are you Gabi and Carlos? I was flabbergasted. Carlos is my middle name, which I often use abroad because it is much easier than Volker. Yes, I said. She, pointing to a young man: This is your driver who will take you to Playa Larga.

The owner of the accommodation, without discussing this with us, had identified our transport needs, worked out approximately when we should arrive and organised a driver! What a service! And this after I am used from other countries in Latin America that you have to think of everything, but really everything, yourself.

Gabi and Volker with vintage taxi at Jagüey Grande, Cuba
We with our surprise taxi. I can’t tell you how pleased, how thrilled I was.
Playa Larga Beach, Cuba
Playa Larga has a beautiful beach with palm trees. A nice place to relax for a bit. Otherwise, there’s not much you can do.
Coral at Playa Larga, Cuba
The sea here is very shallow, very sandy. If you want, you can do a little snorkeling. You can’t see much, though. The water is not very clear. There are single corals, mostly in rather bad condition, and of course scattered fish.

The landscape around Playa Larga is rather limited in terms of human use. Here is the largest swamp in the Caribbean, the Península de Zapata is a large national park.

Nevertheless, this area was chosen to drop off about 1400 CIA-trained Cuban exiles in 1961 to start a counter-revolution from there and overthrow Fidel Castro. Why there? Of course, you can argue that in the middle of a swamp you’re not so easily vulnerable. But you can’t really attack from there either. Ultimately, it was probably just a matter of entrenching themselves there, flying in an “exile government” from Florida, then sending out a call for help, to which the USA would then have responded with its entire military superiority. But it didn’t come to that, because within three days the invaders were defeated.

Gran Parque Natural Montemar, Península de Zapata, Cuba
Trip to the National Park Gran Parque Natural Montemar in an open oldtimer. Unfortunately, we were probably a little too late to see tens of thousands of flamingos that spend the winter here. We also didn’t see any alligators, which are plentiful here.
Crabs on the road between Playa Grande and Playa Girón, Cuba
On the road between Playa Grande and Playa Girón we experience a spectacle as I have only seen it once in my life. Tens of thousands of crabs cross the road on their way between their regular habitat in the swampy forests and their spawning grounds in the sea.
The vehicles have no choice but to drive over the animals if they want to continue using the road. Watch for the moment the bus passes. The only way the crabs can take revenge on motorists is that occasionally a tire will not survive the sharp edges of the crab shells.

Between Playa Grande and Playa Girón there is a possibility for diving and snorkeling. Behind the beach here is a “water hole” and a cave where salt and fresh water mix.

Gabi and Volker diving in Cuba
Gabi had the opportunity to dive with me on my octopus (the second breathing apparatus, which is normally intended for emergencies), so she was almost as free as when snorkeling. And after this trip showed her how it feels to breathe under water, she then went diving on her own for the first time with an instructor and her own equipment.
arrow ghost crab, Cuba
There wasn’t much to see here, the corals are quite battered. But a few colorful fish and also other animals (in the picture an arrow ghost crab) were there.

Our next stop was Playa Girón, the main site of the 1961 Bay of Pigs invasion. And we were there on the very days when the invasion and its suppression had occurred 51 years ago. Accordingly, we were allowed to experience a great socialist spectacle.

Stage program 2012 for the suppression of the Bay of Pigs invasion, Cuba.
There were lots of speeches and the audience present knew exactly when which answer was expected from the audience, e.g. at the famous “¡Hasta la victoria … siempre!”, with the “siempre” coming from the audience. However, the enthusiasm of the audience, at this probably obligatory event, was limited.
Volker with small alligator, Cuba
Otherwise, the whole thing had more of a folk festival character, of course without a lot of expensive technology and commercialism. But people were enjoying themselves, whether it was like me with alligator, roasted pig on a spit, or of course (big highlight) a National League baseball game.
Peso Pizza, Cuba
The picture with the alligator gives me the opportunity to refer to the “Peso Pizza”: Unlike most other foods, you can get it on every corner, it’s delicious and reasonably affordable even for locals.

And while I’m on the subject of food: We have usually eaten very well in the casas particulares. Often the food was simple but delicious and much more than we could eat. In some cases it was even luxurious, despite all the shortages in supplies for the locals, (e.g. lobster in large portions).

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